Showing posts with label intermediate. Show all posts
Showing posts with label intermediate. Show all posts

Friday, August 28, 2009

Quasi-Victorian Woman's Topper Pattern



QUASI-VICTORIAN WOMAN'S TOPPER
This hat was fun to do. I created two similar ones and will post the pics, also.
The pattern has not been tested. If anyone makes one, please let me know if you find any errors, have any questions or problems. Thank you.

Materials: J hook; Red Heart Soft Yarn in 4 colors (altho' for the fourth color [white] I used Pompadour)

{Sample hat used: (A) Burgundy, (B) Medium Green, (C) Lilac Ombre, & (D) shiny white yarn}

Gauge: I didn't measure anything, just made a hat for an average head (mine = 22-1/2"). I used a smaller hook for the peach-colored hat which has a different finish.

Special Stitches Used:

1. Treble (Trbl): (this st is sometimes called a 'Triple') wrap yarn around hk twice, insert hk in next st, pull up a lp (4 lps on hook), *yo, pull thru two lps on hook* 3 times.

2. Double Treble (DT): wrap yarn around hk three times, insert hk in next st, pull up lp (5 lps on hk), *yo, pull thru 2 lps on hk* 4 times.

3. Triple Treble (TT): wrap yarn around hk four times, insert hk in next st, pull up lp (6 lps on hk), *yo, pull thru two lps on hk* 5 times.

4. Long Single Crochet (Lsc): insert hk into specified st and pull up lp longer than usual.

ABBREVIATIONS: Beginning = Beg; Chain = Ch; Double Crochet = dc; Fasten Off = FO; Half Double Crochet = hdc; Hook = hk; Loop = lp; Repeat = rep; Single Crochet = sc; Slip Stitch = sl st; Space = sp; Stitch = st; Yarn over = yo.

HAT:

Rnd 1 (RS): With A, ch 4. In 4th ch from hk, place 2 dc, *ch 1, 3 dc in ring* 3 times, ch 1, join to beg 3, TURN.

Rnd 2: Slst into 1st ch-1 sp; ch 3, work (2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in same ch; *ch 1, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next ch-1 sp*, rep 2 times more; ch 1, join. TURN.

Rnd 3: Slst in 1st ch-1 sp; ch 3, 2d in same sp, *ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp,* rep 2 times; (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next ch 1 sp, ch 1, join. TURN.

Rnd 4: Ch 3, dc in ea dc to ch 1 sp. In ch 1 sp, work 3 hdc, *dc in ea dc around, work 3 hdc in ch 1 sp* around. Join, ch 3, TURN.

Rnd 5: Dc in ea dc and hdc in ea hdc around. (56 sts) ch 3, TURN.

Rnd 6 - 10: Dc in ea st around.

Rnd 11: Change to Color C; ch 3, crochet in back loops only, dc around. Join. DO NOT TURN.

Rnd 12 - 13: Rep Round 11 (56 sts still. smile)

Rnd 14: Attach B in last st worked. Ch 1, sc in same st, TT in unworked loop of Rnd 10 above, skip st behind TT, sc in next 7 sts; *TT in next unworked st in Rnd 10 above, sc in next 7 sts* Rep around, ending last rep with--sc in next 6 sts, join to beg sc. FO.

Rnd 15: (NOTE: because I used a lighter wt yarn--Pompadour--I crocheted this round very loosely.) Attach D with slst in 1st st, sc in same st and in next TT, *in next unworked st on Rnd 10, make TT; make DT in next unworked st of Rnd 11, sk 2 sc behind sts just worked, sc in next 6 sc* around. End last rep with--sc in last 4 sc. Join and FO.

Rnd 16: Attach A with slst in 1st sc, sc in same st and in next 2 sts (work over "stuff" behind long crochets so work looks neater) *make DT in next unworked st on Rnd 11, Trbl in next unworked st on Rnd 12, dc INTO next st on Rnd 13, long sc into next st on Rnd 14, sc in ea of next 4 sts* Rep around, end--sc in last sc, join.

Rnd 17: Ch 1, sc in same sc as joining. Sc in next 2 sc, 5 hdc in next st. *sc in ea of next 6 sc, 5 hdc in next st* around, end sc in last 3 sc, join. (I recommend working over double treble and treble below by catching the yarn in the back from the row below to make work neater and more 'stable').

Rnd 18: Ch 1, sc in same st as joining, sc in next 2 sc, hdc in next st, 2 hdc in ea of the next 3 sts, hdc in next st *sc in ea of next 6 sts, hdc in next st, 2 hdc in ea of next 3 sts, hdc in next st* around, ending -- sc in last 3 sts.

Rnd 19: Ch 1, sc in same st as joining and in next st; *sk next sc, (2 hdc in next hdc, 1 hdc in next hdc) four times, sk next sc, sc in next 4 sts* around, ending last rep with == sc in next 2 sc, join in beg sc.

Rnd 20: Ch 1, sc in same st as joining, sc in next st, hdc in next 5 sts; 2 hdc in ea of next 2 sts, hdc in next 5 sts. *sc in next 4 sts, hdc in next 5 sts, 2 hdc in next 2 sts, 1 hdc in next 5 sts* around, ending--sc in ea st to end. Join. FO.

Rnd 21: With WS facing you, attach D in 2nd st to right of joining st. Ch 1, (draw up a loop in this st and in ea of next sts) {4-sc dec made}, ch 3, sc in back loop of ea st around to next sc, Ch 3, *4-sc dec, (ch 3, sc) to next sc, Ch 3* around, end--sl st into "eye" of 4-sc dec.

Now the tricky part: with RS facing, flatten/fold 1st six rows into hat. See first picture above.
With RS facing you, flatten/fold 1st 6 rows into hat.
Attach B in top part of any dc on Rnd 6, sc in top of each dc until you are above a corner of beg granny square, 3 sc in this corner st. Keep as even a count of sc as you can between corners, work around in this manner. Join, FO. Weave in end.
Attach A to beg sc, slst in ea st around, join. FO, weave in end.
There you have it--a floppy, soft, comfy, interesting hat!!!

Monday, June 22, 2009

Turning Circle Prayer Shawl Pattern


I FINALLY FINISHED WRITING DOWN THE PATTERN for the Turning Circle Prayer Shawl. I had to make a second one so I could remember what I did and the finish on the 2nd one is different. I couldn't remember what I did on the first one and I don't have it anymore.
If anyone tries this pattern and takes a picture, please let me know if you find any errors or have any comments. I welcome all comments.
See picture of this Shawl at http://www.ravelry.com/ under EmmaLemmon47@msn.com

Materials: Leftover Worsted Weight Yarn. I don't know the exact amount. I just worked until the shawl was the size I wanted it. (Smaller: Baby version; Larger: Lapghan or Shawl) I did use some "fluffy" stuff hanging around to make it different.
Size Hooks: 'K', 'L', and you may need an 'M' or even an 'N'.

NOTES: 1) Ch3 at the beginning of each row LOOSELY. 2) Gauge is not important as you can adapt the pattern to make larger or smaller. 3) At various times, lay the shawl down on the floor or a table to check to be sure that it is lying flat. If yours is NOT lying flat, go up one size hook OR ch more between rounds OR place 3 dc in chain space instead of 2. 4) This shawl requires LOOSE work. If you tend to crochet tight, don't be afraid to use a Hook one or two sizes larger.

Ch 4, join into a circle with a slst.

Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc now and throughout). Dc in ring, ch2, *2dc in ring, ch 2* around until you have 6 2-dc sets with ch2 in between. Slst in top of Ch 3.

Row 2: Ch 3; 2 dc in next dc, ch 2, *dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc, ch 2" around. Slst.
(6 3-dc groups with 2 ch bet)

Row 3: Ch 3; *dc in ea dc to last dc of group, 2 dc in last dc, ch 3 between groups* around. Slst.
(six 4-dc groups with ch 3 bet)

Row 4: Ch 3; dc in ea dc to end of group, 3 dc in last dc, ch 3 bet groups.
(six 6-dc groups with ch 3 bet)

Row 5: Ch 3; *dc in ea dc to end, 2 dc in last dc, Ch 4 bet groups. Slst
(Six 7-dc groups with ch 4 bet)

Row 6: Ch 3 (LOOSELY!!); *dc in each dc to end of group, 2 dc in ch 4 space, Ch 4* around. Slst. (Six 9-dc groups with ch 4 bet)

Row 7: Rep Row 6, placing Ch 5 between groups. Slst
(Six 11-dc groups with ch 5 bet)

Row 8: Change to Size 'L' hook. Ch 3; *dc in ea dc to end of group, 2 dc in ch space, ch 5* around. Slst. (six 13-dc groups with ch 5 bet)

Row 9: Ch 3 (LOOSELY); *dc in ea dc, place 2 dc in ch space, Ch 5*. Slst.
(Six 15-dc groups with ch 5 bet)

Row 10: Slst into next dc, ch 3; *dc in ea dc to end of group, 3 dc in ch sp, Ch 6* around. Slst. (six 17-dc groups with ch 6 bet ea group)

Row 11: Sl st in next st, ch 3; dc in ea dc to end of group, 2 dc in ch sp, ch 6, *skip 1st dc, dc in ea dc to end of group, 2 dc in ch sp, ch 6* around. Sl st
(six 18-dc groups wtih ch 6 bet)

Row 12: Rep Row 11. (six 19-dc groups with ch 6 bet)

Row 13: Rep Row 11, placing ch 7 between groups. (six 20-dc groups with ch 7 bet)

Row 14: Sl st in next st, ch 3; dc in ea dc to end of group, 2 dc in ch sp, ch 7, *skip 1st dc, dc in ea dc to end of group, 2 dc in ch sp, ch 7* around. Slst. (six 21-dc groups with ch 7 bet)

Row 15: Rep Row 14. (Six 22-dc groups with ch 7 bet)

Row 16: Sl st in next st, ch 3; *dc in ea dc to end of group, 2 dc in ch sp, ch 8* around. Sl st.
(six 23-dc groups, ch 8 bet)
NOTE: Don't forget to lay shawl/lapghan down to check to see if it is lying flat. :-o

Row 17: Rep Row 16 with ch 8 bet groups. (six 24-dc groups, ch 9 bet)

Row 18: Rep Row 17. (six 25-dc groups, ch 9 bet)

Row 19: Sl st in next st, ch 3; *dc in ea dc to end of group, 3 dc in ch sp, ch 9* around. Slst
(27-dc groups, ch 9 bet)

Row 20: Rep Row 17 as written. (six 28-dc groups, ch 9 bet)

Row 21: Rep pattern with ch 10 between groups. (six 29-dc groups, 10 ch bet)

Row 22: Rep pattern with 3dc in ch sp and 10 ch bet groups. Sl st.
(six 31-dc groups, 10 ch bet)

Row 23: Ch 3, dc in ea dc and ch st around, Increasing one dc every 15st by placing 2 dc in the 15th st. Sl st to join. (NOTE: If need be, you can increase more to get work to lie flat.)

Row 24: Ch 3, dc in next 3 dc, 5 dc in next dc, *skip 2 dc, sc in next sc, ch 2; dc in ea of next 4 dc, 5 dc in next dc* around. You may need to "fudge" to fit the pattern at the end as I didn't count stitches. Sl st in beg ch. Fasten Off.

I hope you like this pattern. The idea came from looking at old doilies on a vintage site.
EmmaLemmon47