Felted Crocheted (or Knitted) Kitchen Set Template

Whew, that's some title!  I am making a set for my friend to take to her daughter's wedding.  Her daughter has her own home, her bridegroom has his own home and they have everything they could possibly need, even money!  So I decided to make her a one-of-a-kind kitchen set.  I hope someone can use this and that you enjoy it. 
The first two pictures show the unfelted items.
Next pictures are the items felted.

FELTED CROCHET OR KNIT KITCHEN SET TEMPLATE  Designed by Linda Graimm, emmalemmon47@yahoo.com
Had a wedding shower coming up with no money and decided I would make something. This is the results. It can also be knitted if you use the template measurements.

TO SWITCH THIS DESIGN TO KNITTING: make any knitted items in the sizes listed, before Felting, and it will come out just as well.

Set consists of: Felted Oven Mitt, 4 (four) Felted Mug Rugs/Coasters, 2 (two) Felted hotmats, and a felted Bag/Large Hotmat that holds them all.

NOTE:  You could add any kitchen item to this set that you desire, such as, potholder (make at least 14” across so that there will be plenty of fabric to protect hands, place a hanger on the square…be sure to NOT use a granny square as the spaces could be hot!! Smile), fridgie in any shape (these would be easy to do as size doesn’t really matter), small wall hanging using a quilted pattern or your favorite potholder design, etc.

MATERIALS: Patons Classic Wool in 3 colors; Crochet Hook Size USA ‘J’ {Pic shows materials as: Patons Classic Wool, 2 skeins Dark Beige Marble, Patons Classic Wool, 1 skein Woodrose Heather, and 1 skein Patons Classic Wool Merino Winter White}


GAUGE This fits a general size for each piece—
Mitt: Unfelted = 13” long, 7” wide when flattened at cuff, thumb is 4-1/2” from start to tip; Felted =  10” long, 6” wide, thumb is 3’1/2”
Heart-Shaped hotmats (2): Unfelted = 10” at widest part, 8” from indentation down to tip; Felted =  6” at widest part, 6” from indentation down to tip
Mug Ruts/Coasters (4): Unfelted = 6” square, with circle being 6” across; Felted =  4” across
Bag/Large Hotmat: Unfelted = 14” square;  Felted =  10” square

INSTRUCTIONS:

MITT: Follow any bathmitt or mitten pattern that uses Double Crochet. Using Size ‘J’ Hook and hdc, follow the instructions, adding rows and a few more stitches to the thumb because it will shrivel up in the felting process.
     For the pattern I made, I essentially started with a progression of 12 Double Crochet, 24 Double Crochet, 36 Double Crochet, switched to Half Double Crochet (adding 4 more stitches) for 16 rows (changing colors as shown in the unfelted pictures).
     For thumb, I chained 2, put hdc in the first 3 sts, chained 12, skipped 10 stitches, hdc to end. Continuing up for 10 more rows, decreasing 2 sts over thumb area on first row.
     Place hdc around thumb opening (about 24) and work straight for 7 rows, then start dec’ing.

Mug Rugs/Coasters: Make any shape that you like to 6” across unfelted.

Hotmats: Again, make any shape that you like up to 10” across unfelted.

Bag/Large Hotmat: This is just two large granny squares 14” across including edging, with an edging of hdc in Contrasting Color and then sewn together with a chain for a hanger.

You can find felting direc-tions on the internet but I use a Wonder Washer that I bought for $50.00 through the internet. I fill with very hot water, let it agitate for 15 minute intervals and check the articles often until they are the size I need. Then I rinse the articles in cool water, absorb most of the water by placing the article between two towels and “pushing” on the towel until most of the water is absorbed. I then shape on another towel, put it in my bathroom and close the door…because my little cat loves felted articles and this is to keep him from literally eating them!

Toddler's Swing Pinafore

Toddler’s ‘Swing’ Pinafore—An old-fashioned pinafore!
Designed by Linda Graimm
NOTE:  This pattern is in the process of being tested.  If you make one, please let me know how you did.  Thanks.

emmalemmon47@yahoo.com
I loved making the Butterfly Pinafore (MCCALL’S CROCHET TREASURY, Copyright 1968 etal, Simon & Schuster Publishing Company) but wanted it to be sized for an older girl and more “swingy.” This is the result.

Size: with K hook = 23[26]” waist, 16[17-1/2]” from shoulder to hem. I gave the pinafores to girls. The 23” waist fit a moderate sized 3-yr old, and the 26” waist fit a moderate 4-5 year old, in my experience.
--Larger size is in []

Gauge: with K hook; in dc patt, 11 sts and 5 rows = 4”

1. Shell St varies (gains more stitchess as you work) so the gauge on the skirt shells will vary.
2. Length is very adjustable.
3. Turn each row.
4. If you use #3 weight yarn for edging, be sure to put 3 sc in the side of each row as opposed to alternating 2 sts/3sts each row.

5. You may add or subtract as many rows as you need for your desired end. (nifty “new wave” if you make it shorter so it could become the layered look, and very special girl’s longer model if you add more rows…Flower Girl’s Pinafore? Over a beautiful slip/dress it would look wonderful, I think, possibly with #3 weight yarn?)

Materials: I used leftover worsted weight stash; ‘K’ crochet hook
{Because this was older yarn—before my more organized days—I didn’t save the yarn info, so I am guestimating here….For smaller pinafore, Caron & Glow-in-the-Dark yarn was used; larger size made from pink camo yarn with an acrylic/mohair blend #3 weight yarn}

(Stripes of color in the Pinafore pattern were added either as a result of yarn running out OR randomly, as in the large pinafore}

Starting at Yoke neck edge, chain 52[56].
Row 1: Dc in 4th chain from hook and in each of next 4[6] ch (back); 3 dc (3-dc group) in next chain, dc in each of next 11 ch (sleeve), 3 dc in next chain, dc in each of next 12[14] chain (front), 3 dc in next chain, dc in each of next 11 ch (sleeve), 3 dc in next stitch, dc in each of next 6[7] ch (back) – 58[62] dc (counting ch 3 as 1 dc).
NOTE: Turn each row.

Row 2: Ch 3, skip first dc, dc to center of first 3-dc group, place 3 dc in the center stitch; *dc in each dc across to center of next 3-dc group, 3 dc in the center stitch* to end. –8 dc inc. 66[70] dc

Row 3: Repeat Row 2. 66[70] dc

Row 4: Ch 3, sk first dc, dc in each stitch to center of ch-3 group, 3 dc in next dc, (sk one dc, 3 dc in next dc) 8 times (start of sleeve ruffle), sk next dc, 3 dc in next dc, dc in each st to center of ch-3 group, place 3 dc in center stitch, sk next dc repeat between ( ), sk next dc, dc in each stitch to top of turning ch, dc in turning ch.

Row 5: Ch 3, sk first dc, dc in each stitch to center of 3-dc group, 3 dc in center stitch, sk next dc (5-dc shell in center st of each 3-dc shell in previous row) {8 shells), sk next dc, 3 dc in center of ch-3 group, dc in each stitch to center of next 3-dc group, 3 dc in center stitch, sk next dc, repeat ( ) earlier, sk next dc, dc in each stitch to end, dc in turning ch.

Row 6: Ch 3, sk first dc, dc in each stitch to center of 3-ch group, 3 dc in next dc, ch 2[3], sk sleeve ruffle, 3 dc in center dc of next ch-3 group, dc in each stitch to center of ch-3 group, 3 dc in center stitch, ch [3], skip sleeve ruffle, place 3 dc in center of next 3-dc group, dc in each stitch to end, dc in top of ch 3 from previous row.

Row 7: Ch 3, 2 dc in same stitch as joining, 3 dc in next stitch, *skip next stitch, place 3 dc in next stitch* around, up to and including ch 3 at end.

Row 8: Ch 3, 2 dc in same stitch as joining, 3 dc in center stitch of each 3-dc group around, ending 3 dc in top of turning ch.

Row 9: Ch 3, 2 dc in same stitch as joining, 4 dc in center of each 3-dc group around, ending 3 dc in top of turning ch.

Row 10: Ch 3, 2 dc in same stitch as joining, *place 4 dc between center 2 stitches of previous 4-dc group* across, 3 dc in top of turning chain.

Row 11: Ch 3, 2 dc in same stitch as joining, 5 dc (shell) between center stitches of 4-dc group, around, ending 3 dc in top of turning ch.

Row 12: Ch 3, 2 dc in same stitch as joining, 5 dc (shell) in center stitch of each shell around, ending 3 dc in top of turning ch.

Row 13-15 [13-16]: Repeat Row 12.

Shoulder Ruffle Finishing, if desired: Crochet row of sc around the sleeve, placing 3 sc in center stitch of each shell.

Edging:  {If you use #3 weight yarn for edging, be sure to put 3 sc in the side of each row as opposed to alternating each row.}
Starting at Left Side Back, Ch 30, 1 sc in edge of Row 6, place 2 sc in side of Row 5, 3 sc in side of Row 6, alternating (2 sc, 3 sc) up to corner at neck edge of Left Side of Pinafore; ch 30, slip stitch back down ch, place one sc in corner stitch, turn work so that you are working along neck edge.

--1 sc in each dc to Right Side Corner of neck edge, place 1 sc in corner, ch 30, slip stitch back down ch, place another sc in corner.
--Work down Right Side Edge of Back, alternating (2 sc, 3 sc) in side of each row until you reach Row 6, place 1 sc in side of Row 6, ch 30, slip stitch back down ch, place 2 sc in side of Row 6. Ties made.
--alternating (2 sc, 3 sc) in sides of rows, work to lower edge, place 3 sc in corner.
--Sc across bottom of Pinafore, placing 3 sc in center stitch of each shell to next corner.
--alternating (2 sc, 3 sc) in sides of rows, work to Row 6 where you started, slip stitch in beginning ch to end.
--Fasten Off. Weave in ends.
By all means, contact me if you have any problems with this pattern: emmalemmon47@yahoo.com

Triangle Wheelchair Prayer Shawl

I saw a pattern on http://www.crochetville.org/ for a Triangle Stroller Blankie by Lubba_my_kiddos and thought it would make a great pattern for a Prayer Shawl/Lapghan for people who are wheelchair-bound.  So I jumped right in and this is the results.  There is no pattern, I just rounded off one of the corners from Lubba My Kiddos pattern and increased to "4 dc groups" instead of 3 dc groups to keep the shawl flat.  It was quick, easy and fun.  I used leftover yarn/stash.
Picture #2 shows the rounded corner.  I used dc into hdc's working to keep it centered.  Came out so well. 
Picture #3 is using the lapghan as a shawl.  I elongated the alternate two ends from the rounded ends by putting in a shell of 5 dc, ch 3, 5 dc toward the last 5 rows to make it long enough to work as a shawl. 

 

Caleb's Vest Pattern

Here I am back again with another pattern.  I have been remiss in my "duty" to myself in that I am not journaling like I used to, but I am having a great time designing patterns!  I hope you enjoy this pattern, Caleb's Vest.  My grandson loves it!!  The button is very optional.

Caleb’s Vest

Designed by Linda Graimm, emmalemmon47@msn.com


I made the lighter weight vest first and then thought it would be neat for a “wear-outside” vest but I wanted it smaller because I am not sure bigger boys today wear crocheted vests anymore. Sigh.

Size Large: Chest size, just under armholes—29”, 11-1/2” from underarm to bottom, 18-1/2” from shoulder to bottom
Size Small: [directions in parentheses] Chest size, just under armholes—27”, 9-1/2” from underarm to bottom, 15-1/2” from shoulder to bottom
Materials: For larger size, I used Impeccable Worsted in Soft Taupe, I used approx. 390 yards, size J crochet hook.  For smaller size, I used Bernat Chunky in Fern, approx. half of a skein (this is a huge skein!); Size H hook.


Gauge: For larger size, 12 hdc and 9 rows = 4”
For smaller size, 12 hdc and 9 rows = 4”


NOTE: Ch 2 at beginning of rows does NOT count as stitch; buttons or any other fastening is optional

BACK: Chain 45 [42]
Row 1: Hdc in 3rd chain from hook and in each ch across. 42 [39] sts.
Row 2: Ch 2, turn. Hdc in each st across. 42 [39] sts.
Row 3-22 [3-21]: Repeat Row 2.

Shape Armhole:
Row 23 [22]: Turn, slip stitch in first 3 sts, ch 2. Hdc across until 3 stitches remain, TURN. Do not work the remaining stitches. 39 [36] sts.
Row 24 [23]: Ch 2, hdc in each stitch across. 39 [36] sts.
Row 25-36 [24-35]: Ch 2, turn, hdc in each hdc across. Fasten Off.


Left Front: Ch 26 [22].
Row 1: Hdc in 3rd chain from hook and in each ch across. 24 [19] sts.
Row 2: Ch 2, turn. Hdc in each stitch across.
Row 3-22 [3-21]: Repeat Row 2. 24 [19] sts.

Row 23 [22]: (Armhole) Turn. Slip stitch in first 3 stitches, ch 2. Hdc in each stitch across. 21 [16] sts.
Row 24-32 [23-31]: Ch 2, turn, Hdc in each stitch across. 21 [16] sts.


Row 33 [32]: (Neck Edge) Ch 2, turn. Hdc in 14 [8]sts.
Row 34-36 [33-35]: Ch 2 turn. Hdc in each stitch across. 14 [8] sts.
Fasten Off.


Right Front: Ch 26 [22].
Row 1: Hdc in 3rd chain from hook and in each ch across. 24 [19] sts.
Row 2: Ch 2, turn. Hdc in each stitch across.
Row 3-22 [3-21]: Repeat Row 2. 24 [19] sts.


Row 23 [22]: (Armhole) Ch 2, Turn. Hdc in each stitch across, leaving last 3 stitches unworked. 21 [16] sts.
Row 24-32 [23-31]: Ch 2, turn, Hdc in each stitch across. 21 [16] sts.

Row 33 [32]: (Neck Edge)  Turn, slip stitch in first 10 [8] stitches, Hdc in 11 sts. 11 [8] sts.
Row 34-36 [33-35]: Ch 2 turn. Hdc in each stitch across. 11 [8] sts.
Fasten off.

Sew Shoulder & Side Seams.


Edging: Starting at lower edge of vest on one side seam, join yarn with slip stitch. Ch 2. You will be alternating Front Post HDC and Back Post HDC around sweater, placing them in (as much as you can) a stitch in each stitch and chain around.


Note: When you reach the side of the rows (up or down the front), place stitches so that work lies flat as possible.
Voila.