Easy Peasy Moebius, Getting older, Learning New Stuff

I have been trying my darndest to get into my blog and the rules have changed and so I have to learn something new.....slowly but surely.  I am getting on in years...I admit it.  I finally gave in and bought a "cane seat" so that when I am walking -- and I do walk every day -- and things start hurting, I can whip out that little seat and sit down.  Before I was just stopping where I was until I could go on but I was afraid the neighbors would think I had to go to the bathroom or something.  Embarrassment.  whoa.

Anyway, I created this easy peasy moebius as a quick gift for elderly women who have no family so that RSVP can give it to them at Christmas.  I have made 2 of them.  No one has tested the pattern, but I do have 2 friends who are going to give it a try.  I sure hope you can use this pattern. I love sharing.  Linda

Easy Peasy Moebius 

by Linda Graimm

Worsted Weight yarn  (I used Caron Simply Soft in Pagoda, I think the color was...something like that)
Size J or K hook....whichever you feel more comfortable with
Gauge:  makes no never mind  Smile

PATTERN:

Leaving a long chain about 12", Chain 127

Single crochet in 4th chain from hook, chain 3.

Row 1:   Skip 2 chains, single crochet in next chain across.  ( you may end up with 1 or 2 extra chains.  Ignore them and work them in later.  You need to have a number of ch 3 spaces across that are divisible by 2 with 1 extra so that you start with a ddcs and end with a ddcs (see next row).

Row 2:   Turn work.  Chain 2, in first chain 3 space place:  (double crochet - ch 1 - double crochet - ch 1 double crochet)  (double double crochet shell = ddcs);   *Skip next ch 3 space and in next chain 3 space, place a ddcs*  across the row, ending with a ddcs.

at this point, you will lie the work down and make one twist in the work and then slip stitch in first dc of row just worked (skipping the chain 2) to connect the row.  Now you will work around in rows and the work will have a twist in it.  You will use the beginning long chain to sew the first row together to make work look neater.

Row 3:   slip stitch into first ch 1 sp in ddcs, ch 1, sc in same space.  *Chain 3, sc in next ch 1 space* across row.   Slip stitch in first sc.

Row 4:   Slip stitch into first ch 3 space.  Ch 2,  place ddcs into same ch 3 space,  *skip next chain 3 space and place ddcs into next ch 3 space* across.  ending slip stitch into first dc of first ddcs.

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until as wide as you want the moebius (for sure to fit around your head plus 4 rows or 6 rows if you don't like snug things.  Finish off with ROW 3....this leaves a somewhat lacy edging to match beginning.    Weave in ends and let me know how it goes.
emmalemmon47@yahoo.com

Quick & Easy Lacy Shoulderette Less than 5 hours!

Corrections made January 16, 2012:   SECOND FRONT, Row 12:  Ch 3, skip st, V-st across DC IN LAST DC, Turn.  (4 V-sts)  
Row 1 of edgework:  TURN,  Ch 3, V-st in each st to last st, V-st around...etc.
Row 2:  Ch 3, V-st in each V-st around to last dc.  You can increase with an occasional lacy V-st to keep work flat.


I have been so down that I have not blogged so that I may not inflict myself on the world.  (somewhere in there is part of a quote from Mark Twain (I shall lie abed until noon so that I may not inflict myself on the world).  Anyway, I have been making prayer shawls for many years and I have yet to find one that is so quick and easy and lacy and pretty (she says unabashedly).
This pattern has not been tested because there is only me....I have made 3 of them and am on my fourth and they all came out the same...whethere this is my brain remembering or the pattern is right, I have yet to know.  Smile.

PRAYER SHOULDERETTE OR QUICK AND LACY SHAWLETTE (5 hours or less)

I got the idea for this shoulderette from a photo of Tammy Hildebrand’s for her BLUE SKIES JACKET (July 2008 CROCHET MAGAZINE.COM).  Thank you, Ms. Hildebrand.

Skill Level:  Towards Intermediate

Finished Measurement:  25” across back of shoulders;  middle of neck to bottom of back -= 15”;  From shoulder to front point = 16”

MATERIALS:  --For the green, I used #3 weight yarn (ends I had with no label), off-white is #4 worsted weight yarn (Wintuk 3.5 oz, 4 ply)  You need 2 skeins or approximately 8 oz.

--Hook size “M” (M/13-9.00) (I found metal was the quickest)

--lg-eyed needle to weave in ends

Gauge:  Not Important.  One Size Fits Most

Pattern Notes:        1)  ch-3 at beginning of row counts as first dc.

2)    Special Stitches:

V-ST = (dc, ch 1, dc) all in stitch indicated.

Lacy V-ST = (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) in stitch indicated.
  3)  Ch 3 counts as dc throughout.

SHOULDERETTE  (I personally pray as I make these.  Sometimes for the person who will receive it and sometimes for myself to keep me close to God.  At times I pray for the world and Peace.  It makes me feel serene and useful – and closer to Heaven.  You of course don’t have to.  Just for me, since my oldest son died this past March 2011, I find great need of this.  And it is helping.)

BACK:  Chain 53.

Row 1:  Sc in 2^nd chain from hook and in each chain across.  TURN. (52 sc)

Row 2:  Ch 3, sk next 2 sts, *V-st in next st, sk next 2 sts* across, end with dc in last stitch.  TURN EACH ROW IF I FORGET TO MENTION IT.  Smile.   (16 V-sts)

Row 3-14:  Ch 3, V-st in center of each V-st across, dc in last stitch, TURN  (16 V-sts)

Row 15:  Ch 3,  dc in 1^st V-st, V-st in each V-st to last V st.  Dc in last V-st and Dc.

(14 V-sts)

Row 16:  Ch 3, Skip next dc, V-st across to last 2 dc, Dc in last Dc.  Fasten Off.

FIRST FRONT       Turn work so that starting chain is at the top and Right Side of sc row is facing you.

Row 1:    Attach yarn in 1^st chain, ch 3, skip next 2 chains, *V-st in next chain, skip 2 chains* across until you have 7 V-sts, skip 2 chains, dc in next chain, TURN.

Row 2:    Ch 3, V-st in ea V-st across, dc in last dc.  (7 V-sts)

Row 3:    Repeat Row 2.

[decrease rows]  NOTE:  dec sts are made at side edge)

Row 4:    Ch 3, V-st across.  Do not work in last dc.  TURN

Row 5:    Slst into V-st, Ch 3, dc in same V-st, V-st across, dc in last dc.

Row 6:    Ch 3, V-st across to last dc & Ch 3, sk dc and dc in top of ch 3. TURN.

Row 7:    Ch 3, 2 dc in 1^st V-st, V-st to end, dc in last st.  TURN.

Row 8:    Ch 3, V-st across to last 3 sts.  Dc in next dc, sk 1 dc, dc in last st.  TURN      (6 V-sts)

Row 9:    Ch 3, sk next dc, V-st across, dc in last dc.  TURN.  (5 V-sts)

Row 10:  Ch 3, V-st across 5 V-sts, skip last st.  TURN.

Row 11:  Slst into V-st, ch 3, dc in same V-st, V-st across, dc in last st.  TURN.   (4 V-sts)

Row 12:  Ch 3, V-st in 4 V-sts, skip next dc.  Dc in last st.  TURN.

Row 13:  Ch 3, 2 dc in 1^st V-st.  V-st across, dc in last st.  TURN.  (3 V-sts)

Row 14:  Ch 3, V-st across to last 3 sts, dc in next st, skip 1 st, dc in last st.  TURN.

Row 15:  Ch 3, sk next st, V-st in each V-st, skip last st.  TURN.  (dc—3 V-sts—dc)

Row 16:  Repeat Row 11.  Fasten Off.

SECOND FRONT:  W/ starting ch at top and right side facing, skip 2 sts,  attach yarn,

Row 1:    ch 3, skip 2 ch, *V-st in next ch, sk 2 ch* across to last 3 chs.  Sk 2 chs, dc in last st.  (7 V-sts)  TURN.

Row 2-3: Ch 3, V-st in ea V-st across, dc in last st TURN.  (7 V-sts)

[decrease rows] 

Row 4:    Ch 3, 2 dc in 1^st V-st, V-st across, dc in lst st.  TURN  (6 V-sts)

Row 5:    Ch 3, V-st across to last 3 sts, dc in next dc, sk next st, dc in last st.  TURN.  (6 V-sts)

Row 6:    Ch 3, sk next st, V-st across, dc in last st.  TURN (6 V-sts)

Row 7:    Ch 3, V-st across, skip last dc.  TURN  (6 V-sts)

Row 8:    Ch 3, dc in 1^st V-st, V-st across, dc in last st TURN.  (5 V-sts)

Row 9:    Ch 3, V-st across to last 2 sts, skip st, dc in last st.  TURN.  (5 V-sts)

Row 10:  Ch 3, 2 dc in 1^st V-st, V-st across, dc in last st.  TURN.

Row 11:  Ch 3, V-st across to last 3 sts, dc in next st, skip st, dc in last st.  TURN.  (4 V-sts)

Row 12:  Ch 3, skip st, V-st across, Dc in last dc.  TURN  (4 V-sts)

Row 13:  Ch 3, V-st across, skip last st.  TURN.  (4 V-sts)

Row 14:  Ch 3, dc in 1^st V-st, V-st across, dc in last st.  TURN.

Row 15:  Ch 3, V-st to last 2 sts, skip st, dc in last st.  TURN  (3 V-sts)

Row 16:  Ch 3, V-st across, dc in last st.  (3 V-sts)  

DO NOT FASTEN OFF.

From this point on, you will be working around side edges of shoulderette)

Row 1:    TURN.  Ch 3, V-st in each st to last st, V-st around the ch 3 (corner), V-st in end of next 2 rows.  Continue to V-st in end of each row around to next corner.  You will place a Lacy V-st [dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc] in ch3 just before corner at row end st.  --You are essentially V-st’ing around, end dc in last st (without working the neckline).  TURN.

Row 2:    Ch 3, V-st in each V-st around to last dc.   [NOTE:  add an occasional lacy V-st to ease fit.  TURN.

Row 3:    Ch 3, *V-st in 1^st st, dc lacy V-st in next st* around to last st.  Turn work so you will b working around neck edge:

      

Working around ch 3, (last st of previous row) work Lacy V-st, work in ends of each row up to starting chain.   (alternating V-st, Lacy V-st still).

Sk 1 chain, Lacy V-st in next ch, sk 1 ch, V-st, Lacy V in ends of rows to starting chain of previous row.  Dc in base of Ch 3, Ch 1, slst in top of beginning ch 3.

FO.  Weave in ends.  Voila.   

No-Cut Towel Topper Crochet Pattern

I designed this pattern back in May of 2001 but didn't find it again until this past week!  My Aunt Jean makes these really neat towel topppers but she has to cut the towel and works directly onto the material.  I like changing things off so thought this might work better.  Be sure to use a light-weight towel on the strap. 

NO-CUT TOWEL TOPPER Designed by Linda Graimm

This would work in a kitchen or a bathroom.  If you try this pattern, could you please share a picture. Thank you.   Emmalemmon47@msn.com Don’t hesitate to contact me with any questions, comments, whatever. Enjoy!

MATERIALS:

Bernat Cottontots, 1 skein (I used off-white #90007)
(Country Mauve was done in Lily Sugar’n Cream, 1 skein with Contrasting Color of Ecru scraps)

Size H hook

GAUGE: Not super important

INSTRUCTIONS: Hanging loop -- Ch 9.

Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook; sc in ea ch across. (8 sc)

Row 2: (buttonhole row) Sc in first 3 sts, ch 2, skip 2 sts, sc in final 3 sc. (6 sc and 2 ch)

Row 3: Sc in each of first 3 sts, 2 sc in ch, sc in ea sc to end.  (8 sc)

Row 4-30: Ch 1, sc in ea st across, turn. (8 sc)

FYI:: The off-white towel topper looks a bit different because I did the Reverse sc or Crab Stitch in two of the unworked loops at intervals.

NOTE: The following rows are worked in back loops of each st except where noted.

Row 31: 2 sc (in back loops of all sts) of firsts sc, 1 sc in ea st across to last st. In last st, work 2 sc in back loop (10 sc thus far);

--now ch 20, turn and slst in each ch to beg of ch (19 slst)

(You will be making a round) Work in REMAINING LOOPS of last row, 2 sc in 1st st, sc in each of next 6 sts, 2 sc in last st;

--insert hook in top of ch loop and first sc of Row 31, ull yarn through all loops. (This makes the loop for the towel to hang on). Ch 3, TURN.

NOTE: WORK IN ROUNDS FROM NOW ON.

Round 1: In back loops only, 1 dc in same st as joining, 2 dc in each st across, keeping towel loop to INSIDE of work. (42 dc, you might have to fudge this a bit)

Round 2: (back loops only) Ch 3, 1 dc in same st as starting ch, 1 dc in next st, *2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next st.* Rep * to * around. (63 dc)

Round 3: (back loops only) Ch 3, place one dc in ea st around. (63 dc, counting turning chain)

Round 4: (back loops only) Ch 3, TURN, dc in ea dc around. (63 dc)

Round 5 & 6: Repeat Round 4, turning each round.

Round 7: Working on Wrong Side of work, (sc, ch 1) in back loops of ea st around.

(I changed to a CC on the Country Mauve towel topper.). Join. (63 sts with 63 chains)

Round 8: Working on Right Side of work, Ch 3, (in back loops of Row 6), dc in same st as joining, dc in ea of next 2 sts, *2 dc in next st, dc in ea of next 2 sts*. Rep * to * around. (84 dc)

Round 9: Do not turn. Repeat Row 3. (84 dc)

Round 10: Working in back loop on Right Side, slst in 1st st, ch 3, skip one st, *slst in next st, ch 3, sk next st* around. Fasten Off.

OPTIONAL ROUND 10: Repeat Row 7.

BUTTONHOLE TRIM: Attach yarn at 1st row of hanging loop. Ch 1, sc in 1st st, hdc in next st, dc in third st, 7 dc into buttonhole opening, dc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in last st. Fasten off.

Optional trim on buttonhole—Attach yarn and repeat first row above, on 2nd row, ch 1, TURN, sc, ch 3 in ea st across to last st. Sc in last st. Fasten off.

Put on a fancy button, fold towel in half, insert onto loop inside “skirt.” Pretty.

Faux Baseball Cap Pattern March 2010

FAUX BASEBALL CAP designed by Linda Graimm

This pattern has only been tested by me (over and over and over…) but if you find anything that you have questions about or seems to be wrong, please don’t hesitate to contact me at emmalemmon47@msn.com.

Boy or Girl size: 20” around

MATERIALS: Worsted Wt yarn; Size “H” hook, tapestry needle
Note: I used Caron Simply Soft, one skein of Berry Blue. Doesn’t take too much yarn to make this hat unless you have help from your beloved kitty, Bearli, who loves to play with yarn and rip things out.

GAUGE: 4 stitches = 1”, approx. 3 rows = 1”

NOTES:
1. Ch 2 does NOT count as stitch throughout.
2. Hdc Decrease (Hdc Dec): Wrap yarn around hook, put through stitch indicated stitch, pull up a loop, pull up a loop in next stitch, YO and pull through all loops on hook.
3. Front Post Double Crochet (FPdc): Place hook through post of stitch on row below from front to back to front, wrap yarn around hook, pull yarn through post, complete as a regular double crochet.
4. Back Post Double Crochet (BPdc): Place hook through post of stitch on row below from back to front to back, wrap yarn around hook, pull through post, complete as a regular double crochet.
5. When making FPdc or BPdc, the next stitch sort of gets “sucked up” into the post stitch. Don’t miss that next stitch!

INSTRUCTIONS:
Round 1: Ch 4, 8 hdc in 3rd ch from hook, join in top of beg ch 2 throughout unless otherwise indicated. (8hdc)

Round 2: Ch 2, 2 hdc in each stitch around, join (16 hdc)

Round 3: Ch 2, *hdc in next stitch, 2 hdc in next stitch* Repeat around, join. (24 hdc)

Round 4: Ch 2, *hdc in each of 2 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch* Repeat around, join. (32 stitches)

Round 5: Ch 2, *hdc in each of 3 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch* Repeat around, join. (40 stitches)

Round 6: Ch 2, *hdc in each of next 4 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch* Repeat around, join. (48 stitches)

Round 7: Ch 2, L*hdc in each of next 5 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch* Repeat around, join. (56 stitches)

Round 8: Ch 2, *hdc in each of next 6 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch* Repeat around, join. (64 stitches)

Round 9: Ch 2, *hdc in each of next 7 stitches, 2 dc in next stitch* once, hdc in each of next 7 stitches, 7 DC in FRONT LOOP only of next stitch (Visor Shell started). Hdc in each of next 7 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch* twice. 1 hdc in each of next 2 hdc, work FPdc over next stitch, *BPdc over next stitch, FPdc over next stitch* five times (11 stitches in ribbing). Hdc in next 2 stitches, hdc in next 7 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch. Join.

Round 10: Ch 2, hdc in first 14 stitches. Sk 2 hdc, 2 dc in each of 7 Visor Shell stitches (14 stitches for shell); sk 2 hdc, hdc to 1 stitch before Ribbing. BPdc over next stitch, *FPdc over FPdc, BPdc over BPdc* to end of ribbing, BPdc over next stitch (13 Ribbing Stitches). Hdc to end, join.

Round 11: [Note: from here on in, *FPdc around all FPdc and BPdc around all BPdc*] Hdc in 10 stitches. Hdc decrease over next 2 stitches, sk next 2 stitches, *1 dc in next stitch, 2 dc in next stitch*. Repeat 6 more times (21 stitches on Visor Shell). Sk next 2 stitches, hdc decrease over next 2 stitches; hdc in next 21 stitches, hdc decrease over next 2 stitches, Repeat from * to * across ribbing stitches starting and ending with BPdc] {13 stitches in ribbing}, hdc decrease over next 2 stitches, hdc in last 10 stitches, join.

Round 12: Ch 2, hdc in first 7 stitches, hdc decrease over next 2 stitches, skip 2 stitches, place 3 double crochet in first Visor Shell stitch, dc in each of next 3 stitches, *3 dc in next stitch, dc in next 3 stitches* across Visor Shell, ending with 3 dc in last stitch of Shell. Skip two stitches, hdc decrease over next 2 stitches. Hdc in next 18 stitches. FPdc around next stitch (which was a hdc decrease in row below), *BPdc in each BPdc, FPdc in each FPdc across ribbing. At end of ribbing, FPdc around next stitch (15 stitches). Hdc in last 10 stitches of round, join.

Round 13: Ch 2, hdc in first 7 stitches; skip next stitch. Single Crochet in each stitch of Visor Shell (I did these stitches tightly because it helps the visor stand up/out) (33 stitches); skip next stitch, hdc in each of next 18 stitches, *FPdc around each FPdc, and BPdc around each BPdc* across ribbing (15 stitches in ribbing). Hdc in last 10 stitches, join.

Round 14: Ch 2, hdc in each of next 6 stitches, hdc decrease over next 2 stitches, slip stitch in next 31 sts, hdc decrease over 2 stitches, hdc in 14 sts. Hdc decrease over 2 stitches, *FPdc over FPdc, BPdc over BPdc* over ribbing (15 stitches), hdc decrease over next 2 stitches, hdc in last 8 stitches, join. FO, weave in ends.

I crocheted a little flat button for the top of the hat but you could use a button or leave plain if you would like.

When (and if--I did not block because Caron SS is so very soft) you block the cap (this is unblocked), you may have to pull ribbing straight. It really isn’t as crooked as it appears in the pictures. Really.

This hat was made the same as above, except the ribbing came first on the front and then I added the Visor Shell.  I made 5 of these for my grandkids all in Hunter Green for a picture session, and I got a little bored making the same thing so I experimented here and there.

Don't hesitate to contact me if there are problems or you have any questions.  emmalemmon47@msn.com
This, too, shall pass.

Toddler's Swing Pinafore

Toddler’s ‘Swing’ Pinafore—An old-fashioned pinafore!
Designed by Linda Graimm
NOTE:  This pattern is in the process of being tested.  If you make one, please let me know how you did.  Thanks.

emmalemmon47@yahoo.com
I loved making the Butterfly Pinafore (MCCALL’S CROCHET TREASURY, Copyright 1968 etal, Simon & Schuster Publishing Company) but wanted it to be sized for an older girl and more “swingy.” This is the result.

Size: with K hook = 23[26]” waist, 16[17-1/2]” from shoulder to hem. I gave the pinafores to girls. The 23” waist fit a moderate sized 3-yr old, and the 26” waist fit a moderate 4-5 year old, in my experience.
--Larger size is in []

Gauge: with K hook; in dc patt, 11 sts and 5 rows = 4”

1. Shell St varies (gains more stitchess as you work) so the gauge on the skirt shells will vary.
2. Length is very adjustable.
3. Turn each row.
4. If you use #3 weight yarn for edging, be sure to put 3 sc in the side of each row as opposed to alternating 2 sts/3sts each row.

5. You may add or subtract as many rows as you need for your desired end. (nifty “new wave” if you make it shorter so it could become the layered look, and very special girl’s longer model if you add more rows…Flower Girl’s Pinafore? Over a beautiful slip/dress it would look wonderful, I think, possibly with #3 weight yarn?)

Materials: I used leftover worsted weight stash; ‘K’ crochet hook
{Because this was older yarn—before my more organized days—I didn’t save the yarn info, so I am guestimating here….For smaller pinafore, Caron & Glow-in-the-Dark yarn was used; larger size made from pink camo yarn with an acrylic/mohair blend #3 weight yarn}

(Stripes of color in the Pinafore pattern were added either as a result of yarn running out OR randomly, as in the large pinafore}

Starting at Yoke neck edge, chain 52[56].
Row 1: Dc in 4th chain from hook and in each of next 4[6] ch (back); 3 dc (3-dc group) in next chain, dc in each of next 11 ch (sleeve), 3 dc in next chain, dc in each of next 12[14] chain (front), 3 dc in next chain, dc in each of next 11 ch (sleeve), 3 dc in next stitch, dc in each of next 6[7] ch (back) – 58[62] dc (counting ch 3 as 1 dc).
NOTE: Turn each row.

Row 2: Ch 3, skip first dc, dc to center of first 3-dc group, place 3 dc in the center stitch; *dc in each dc across to center of next 3-dc group, 3 dc in the center stitch* to end. –8 dc inc. 66[70] dc

Row 3: Repeat Row 2. 66[70] dc

Row 4: Ch 3, sk first dc, dc in each stitch to center of ch-3 group, 3 dc in next dc, (sk one dc, 3 dc in next dc) 8 times (start of sleeve ruffle), sk next dc, 3 dc in next dc, dc in each st to center of ch-3 group, place 3 dc in center stitch, sk next dc repeat between ( ), sk next dc, dc in each stitch to top of turning ch, dc in turning ch.

Row 5: Ch 3, sk first dc, dc in each stitch to center of 3-dc group, 3 dc in center stitch, sk next dc (5-dc shell in center st of each 3-dc shell in previous row) {8 shells), sk next dc, 3 dc in center of ch-3 group, dc in each stitch to center of next 3-dc group, 3 dc in center stitch, sk next dc, repeat ( ) earlier, sk next dc, dc in each stitch to end, dc in turning ch.

Row 6: Ch 3, sk first dc, dc in each stitch to center of 3-ch group, 3 dc in next dc, ch 2[3], sk sleeve ruffle, 3 dc in center dc of next ch-3 group, dc in each stitch to center of ch-3 group, 3 dc in center stitch, ch [3], skip sleeve ruffle, place 3 dc in center of next 3-dc group, dc in each stitch to end, dc in top of ch 3 from previous row.

Row 7: Ch 3, 2 dc in same stitch as joining, 3 dc in next stitch, *skip next stitch, place 3 dc in next stitch* around, up to and including ch 3 at end.

Row 8: Ch 3, 2 dc in same stitch as joining, 3 dc in center stitch of each 3-dc group around, ending 3 dc in top of turning ch.

Row 9: Ch 3, 2 dc in same stitch as joining, 4 dc in center of each 3-dc group around, ending 3 dc in top of turning ch.

Row 10: Ch 3, 2 dc in same stitch as joining, *place 4 dc between center 2 stitches of previous 4-dc group* across, 3 dc in top of turning chain.

Row 11: Ch 3, 2 dc in same stitch as joining, 5 dc (shell) between center stitches of 4-dc group, around, ending 3 dc in top of turning ch.

Row 12: Ch 3, 2 dc in same stitch as joining, 5 dc (shell) in center stitch of each shell around, ending 3 dc in top of turning ch.

Row 13-15 [13-16]: Repeat Row 12.

Shoulder Ruffle Finishing, if desired: Crochet row of sc around the sleeve, placing 3 sc in center stitch of each shell.

Edging:  {If you use #3 weight yarn for edging, be sure to put 3 sc in the side of each row as opposed to alternating each row.}
Starting at Left Side Back, Ch 30, 1 sc in edge of Row 6, place 2 sc in side of Row 5, 3 sc in side of Row 6, alternating (2 sc, 3 sc) up to corner at neck edge of Left Side of Pinafore; ch 30, slip stitch back down ch, place one sc in corner stitch, turn work so that you are working along neck edge.

--1 sc in each dc to Right Side Corner of neck edge, place 1 sc in corner, ch 30, slip stitch back down ch, place another sc in corner.
--Work down Right Side Edge of Back, alternating (2 sc, 3 sc) in side of each row until you reach Row 6, place 1 sc in side of Row 6, ch 30, slip stitch back down ch, place 2 sc in side of Row 6. Ties made.
--alternating (2 sc, 3 sc) in sides of rows, work to lower edge, place 3 sc in corner.
--Sc across bottom of Pinafore, placing 3 sc in center stitch of each shell to next corner.
--alternating (2 sc, 3 sc) in sides of rows, work to Row 6 where you started, slip stitch in beginning ch to end.
--Fasten Off. Weave in ends.
By all means, contact me if you have any problems with this pattern: emmalemmon47@yahoo.com

Caleb's Vest Pattern

Here I am back again with another pattern.  I have been remiss in my "duty" to myself in that I am not journaling like I used to, but I am having a great time designing patterns!  I hope you enjoy this pattern, Caleb's Vest.  My grandson loves it!!  The button is very optional.

Caleb’s Vest

Designed by Linda Graimm, emmalemmon47@msn.com


I made the lighter weight vest first and then thought it would be neat for a “wear-outside” vest but I wanted it smaller because I am not sure bigger boys today wear crocheted vests anymore. Sigh.

Size Large: Chest size, just under armholes—29”, 11-1/2” from underarm to bottom, 18-1/2” from shoulder to bottom
Size Small: [directions in parentheses] Chest size, just under armholes—27”, 9-1/2” from underarm to bottom, 15-1/2” from shoulder to bottom
Materials: For larger size, I used Impeccable Worsted in Soft Taupe, I used approx. 390 yards, size J crochet hook.  For smaller size, I used Bernat Chunky in Fern, approx. half of a skein (this is a huge skein!); Size H hook.


Gauge: For larger size, 12 hdc and 9 rows = 4”
For smaller size, 12 hdc and 9 rows = 4”


NOTE: Ch 2 at beginning of rows does NOT count as stitch; buttons or any other fastening is optional

BACK: Chain 45 [42]
Row 1: Hdc in 3rd chain from hook and in each ch across. 42 [39] sts.
Row 2: Ch 2, turn. Hdc in each st across. 42 [39] sts.
Row 3-22 [3-21]: Repeat Row 2.

Shape Armhole:
Row 23 [22]: Turn, slip stitch in first 3 sts, ch 2. Hdc across until 3 stitches remain, TURN. Do not work the remaining stitches. 39 [36] sts.
Row 24 [23]: Ch 2, hdc in each stitch across. 39 [36] sts.
Row 25-36 [24-35]: Ch 2, turn, hdc in each hdc across. Fasten Off.


Left Front: Ch 26 [22].
Row 1: Hdc in 3rd chain from hook and in each ch across. 24 [19] sts.
Row 2: Ch 2, turn. Hdc in each stitch across.
Row 3-22 [3-21]: Repeat Row 2. 24 [19] sts.

Row 23 [22]: (Armhole) Turn. Slip stitch in first 3 stitches, ch 2. Hdc in each stitch across. 21 [16] sts.
Row 24-32 [23-31]: Ch 2, turn, Hdc in each stitch across. 21 [16] sts.


Row 33 [32]: (Neck Edge) Ch 2, turn. Hdc in 14 [8]sts.
Row 34-36 [33-35]: Ch 2 turn. Hdc in each stitch across. 14 [8] sts.
Fasten Off.


Right Front: Ch 26 [22].
Row 1: Hdc in 3rd chain from hook and in each ch across. 24 [19] sts.
Row 2: Ch 2, turn. Hdc in each stitch across.
Row 3-22 [3-21]: Repeat Row 2. 24 [19] sts.


Row 23 [22]: (Armhole) Ch 2, Turn. Hdc in each stitch across, leaving last 3 stitches unworked. 21 [16] sts.
Row 24-32 [23-31]: Ch 2, turn, Hdc in each stitch across. 21 [16] sts.

Row 33 [32]: (Neck Edge)  Turn, slip stitch in first 10 [8] stitches, Hdc in 11 sts. 11 [8] sts.
Row 34-36 [33-35]: Ch 2 turn. Hdc in each stitch across. 11 [8] sts.
Fasten off.

Sew Shoulder & Side Seams.


Edging: Starting at lower edge of vest on one side seam, join yarn with slip stitch. Ch 2. You will be alternating Front Post HDC and Back Post HDC around sweater, placing them in (as much as you can) a stitch in each stitch and chain around.


Note: When you reach the side of the rows (up or down the front), place stitches so that work lies flat as possible.
Voila.

Scitten Crochet Pattern

“Scitten” Designed by Linda Graimm

QUICK, EASY AND USE-ABLE!!

Size: The “scitten” (Scarf/mitten) shown fits an average woman’s reach. For a teen, you could use a smaller hook. For a man, you could chain 10 and work with 140 sts. For a toddler, work on 110 sts. The scarf is 4” wide and the length is 34”.

NOTE: Directions for toddler’s Scitten are in parentheses.
♥Thanks Pat Engle for testing this pattern for me!
Abbreviations Used:

ch Chain ea = Each FO = Fasten off
Hdc = Half-double crochet hk = Hook Rep = Repeat
Sc = Single crochet sk = skip sts = Stitch(es)

Gauge: not important, this is a fairly relaxed and easy pattern and is very flexible.

Materials: Worsted Wt yarn—2 colors, I used 1 skein of Red Heart Super Saver Delft Blue and a small amount of variegated wool; Crochet Hook Size “K”


NOTES:
1. All hdc’s are worked in the back loop only!
2. Turn work each row.
3. Hdc dec: YO, pull up a loop in this st, pull up a loop in next st, YO and pull through all 4 loops on hook.
Scarf part:
Using MC throughout. Ch 130 (110). Starting in 3rd chain from hk, hdc in ea ch across. (128/108 sts)

Row 2: (Turn work each row) ch 2. Hdc in first 4 sts. Ch 12 for hand opening, sk 10 sts, hdc in ea st until you have 14 sts left, chain 12, sk 10 sts, hdc in last 4 sts. (128/108 sts)

Row 3: Ch 2, hdc in ea st and ch across. (130/110 sts)

Row 4-8: Ch 2, hdc in ea st across. (130/110 sts)

Row 9: Ch 2, hdc in ea st across, dec’ing 2 sts evenly over slit that you made in row 2. (128/108 sts)

Row 10: Ch 2, work even. (128/109 sts) FO.

Next Step: With CC, sc around edge of hand opening; FO and weave in ends.

Mitten part: (Make 2) With MC, ch 24 (20).

Row 1: Hdc in 3rd ch from hk and across. (22/18 hdc).
Row 2: (turn every row) Ch 2, hdc in ea st across. (22/18 sts)
Row 3-11: Ch 2, rep row 2. (22/18 sts) FO.

FINISHING: Bring Mitten Part up behind one end of scarf and hand opening.

Using CC, and holding both thicknesses together, sc around entire scarf, sc’ing mitten parts so that they line up behind scarf and over hand openings(put 3 sc in ea corner) (you will be making a “pocket” for the hand to fit into the slit and rest inside.

FO. Weave in ends.

==Using a strand of MC, with running st or back st, sew remaining opening closed.
If you have a problem, please email me at emmalemmon47@yahoo.com

My own Pattern for KNIT Neckscarf

THICK AND QUICK NECKSCARF
This scarf is warm and oh, so, comfortable. The shaping helps it to not “envelop” your throat. And soft!!


MATERIALS: 1 Skein of Lion Brand Thick & Quick in color of your choice
Size 13 (9mm) Lion Brand Knitting Needles

GAUGE: I felt that the gauge was not needed.
ABBREVIATIONS USED: K = Knit; P = Purl;

NOTES:
1. You will have 24 stitches each and every row throughout.
2. It took me about 3 hours to finish this scarf. I use the Continental Method of knitting.
3. In weaving the end on Row 76, I left a long piece to weave in and wrapped the yarn around the buttonhole edge to reinforce the buttonhole.
4. Neck shaping and buttonhole point begin at Row 41. This consists of increasing in first stitch and decreasing in last stitch every other row.
5. When increasing, I picked up a stitch between first and second stitch, but you could also use K and P in same stitch. This makes a different pattern, however, it does make the hole bigger.

INSTRUCTIONS: Cast on 24 stitches.
Row 1: *P2, K2* across row, end K2.
Row 2-40: Repeat Row 1 until you have 40 rows.

Row 41: Increase in first st, work to last 2 sts, decrease in last stitch.
Row 42: Keeping Rib pattern, work row even.

Row 43: Repeat Row 41.
Row 44: Repeat Row 42.

Row 45 – 72: Repeat Rows 41 and 42 (14 times).
Row 73: P2, Bind off 2 (buttonhole), work across row in pattern as established.

Row 74: Work pattern across to bound off stitches, Cast On 2 sts, work last stitch.
Row 75: Work even across row in pattern.

Row 76: Bind off in pattern. Weave in ends.
**I ended up with about 26” of yarn left from the skein.

Recycling Felted Sweaters and Blessings on this Thanksgiving!

I guess no one is wondering where I've been but that has its good points, too.  Smile.  I have been sick sick sick and I'm tired of it.  Having said that, life goes on.  I found a really neat printed felted sweater at a thrift store and decided to make wristers and whatever else I could salvage from it.    First, I shrunk it...then I cut off the sleeves about 4" down from the shoulders and made these wristers from some fuzzy yarn I had hanging around.  I lined them up so that the ribbing for the sleeves was at the fingertips and the seam was on the inside of the wrist.  Then I cut out an oval for the thumb and using a steel crochet hook, I sc around the edges and added a little bit of lacy chains.  They came out so warm and snuggy.   They were scooped up right away at our craft fair.  I have the top, which I cut into a bolero shape and added white baby yarn in a lacy pattern with a little shell at the back bottom as per the picture below.   It's done and I like the finished bolero.  The parts that are left will become coasters, headband, cat toys.  And I am proud of recycling things.

I have some of my sons and grandkids coming to Thanksgiving.   We will hold it in the community room downstairs so that my two sons who are allergic to cats don't have to breathe my 2nd family (Bearli "Longboy" and Regan "fluffboy" cats).  I am going to try a new technique for cooking a turkey.  I got the idea from America's Test Kitchen which is one of my fav shows on tv.  I will also do the desserts... pumpkin surprise cheesecake (the surprise is that it is lowfat!! and yum) and blueberries in phyllo cups with little things to add.  I think my grandkids will love making those on their own. 

I have so many blessings, today and everyday but I really like having Thanksgiving with my family.  Oh, what a blessing!  I miss my sons.  It is making me cry to think of them.  I know that our children grow up and 'become' but that doesn't mean that I don't wish they all lived close by and dropped in once in awhile or even called once a month or so.  sigh.  Nuffathat.

I will close on that note and write more later or tomorrow.  I need to vent which I haven't had the energy to do lately due to stoopid sikkies.  bleah.  Blessings on this Earth and the People on it.  I know there is both good and bad going on...it has always been that way.  Thanks to the media, we know much more about the bad than we ever wanted or needed to know.  Blessings on President Obama so that he will lead us in the Right Direction and foster love and caring.