Easy Peasy Moebius, Getting older, Learning New Stuff

I have been trying my darndest to get into my blog and the rules have changed and so I have to learn something new.....slowly but surely.  I am getting on in years...I admit it.  I finally gave in and bought a "cane seat" so that when I am walking -- and I do walk every day -- and things start hurting, I can whip out that little seat and sit down.  Before I was just stopping where I was until I could go on but I was afraid the neighbors would think I had to go to the bathroom or something.  Embarrassment.  whoa.

Anyway, I created this easy peasy moebius as a quick gift for elderly women who have no family so that RSVP can give it to them at Christmas.  I have made 2 of them.  No one has tested the pattern, but I do have 2 friends who are going to give it a try.  I sure hope you can use this pattern. I love sharing.  Linda

Easy Peasy Moebius 

by Linda Graimm

Worsted Weight yarn  (I used Caron Simply Soft in Pagoda, I think the color was...something like that)
Size J or K hook....whichever you feel more comfortable with
Gauge:  makes no never mind  Smile

PATTERN:

Leaving a long chain about 12", Chain 127

Single crochet in 4th chain from hook, chain 3.

Row 1:   Skip 2 chains, single crochet in next chain across.  ( you may end up with 1 or 2 extra chains.  Ignore them and work them in later.  You need to have a number of ch 3 spaces across that are divisible by 2 with 1 extra so that you start with a ddcs and end with a ddcs (see next row).

Row 2:   Turn work.  Chain 2, in first chain 3 space place:  (double crochet - ch 1 - double crochet - ch 1 double crochet)  (double double crochet shell = ddcs);   *Skip next ch 3 space and in next chain 3 space, place a ddcs*  across the row, ending with a ddcs.

at this point, you will lie the work down and make one twist in the work and then slip stitch in first dc of row just worked (skipping the chain 2) to connect the row.  Now you will work around in rows and the work will have a twist in it.  You will use the beginning long chain to sew the first row together to make work look neater.

Row 3:   slip stitch into first ch 1 sp in ddcs, ch 1, sc in same space.  *Chain 3, sc in next ch 1 space* across row.   Slip stitch in first sc.

Row 4:   Slip stitch into first ch 3 space.  Ch 2,  place ddcs into same ch 3 space,  *skip next chain 3 space and place ddcs into next ch 3 space* across.  ending slip stitch into first dc of first ddcs.

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until as wide as you want the moebius (for sure to fit around your head plus 4 rows or 6 rows if you don't like snug things.  Finish off with ROW 3....this leaves a somewhat lacy edging to match beginning.    Weave in ends and let me know how it goes.
emmalemmon47@yahoo.com

This is such a warm hat!

Baby's Baker Hat

Worsted wt Yarn (#4.  I used Red Heart Super Saver in blue variegated for the Boy's Hat and Impeccable for the girls hat--cuz those are the colors I had.  (Thank you to everyone who donates yarn to me so I can make hats for the homeless, hospitals and prayer shawls/lapghans!!!)
Size I Hook.

Size:  Newborn.  For a smaller size Preemie you could use a G hook;  For a toddler, you could use a K Hook.  Just guessing here as I have only made the newborn size.

Sts Used:    sc, hdc , dc,

Lazy Shell (sc in indicated chain, ch 3, 2 dc in same ch 3),
Modified Lazy Shell (sc in indicated chain, ch 3, 1 dc in same ch3),
Hdc ribbing (ch indicated number of stitches, hdc across row, ch 2, turn, hdc in BACK LOOP of each hdc of previous row.  Repeat until desired length),
Crab Stitch (sc backward to end of row and join in 1st sc).

Shrinking Rib (this is made after body of hat is finished.  It draws the top of the hat together and makes a neat pattern):  ch 6, turn, sl st in first 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts, hdc in last st.  Turn.  Working in Back Loops only for the rest of the SR:  sl st in next 3 sts on row below on body, turn work, hdc in 1st st (remember back loops only), sc in next 2 sts, sl st in last 2 sts.   *turn work, sl st in first 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts, hdc in next st.  sl st in next  3 sts on body of hat (this is to decrease so you can work 2 or 3 as you see the work sitting flat), turn work, hdc in hdc, sc in each of next 2 sc (again in back loops only), sl st in next 2 sl st. * until you have reached the beginning of the work. sl st last row and first row together,  Fasten off, weave in ends.   If you ended up in the center of the work, leave a long tail of yarn and sew the opening closed.  If you end up at the other end away from the circle, just cut yarn, take a long piece of yarn and a yarn needle and sew center closed.

Instructions:
Ribbing--
Row 1: Ch 10.  Hdc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc across chain.  8 hdc
Row 2:   TURN, Ch 2.  IN BACK LOOPS ONLY, hdc in each hdc across.  8 hdc.
Row 3-24: Repeat Row 2.
This piece when laid flat and not stretched measured 12".

Next:  Fold ends to meet (making a circle) and slip stitch the end rows together, turn piece so that seam is inside the hat and continue working on this piece.

This is the part that decides if it is a boy's or girl's hat--

For Girls:  (working a sc in the ridge part of the ribbing and 5 dc in the middle of each ridge section around.)  To clarify:  ch 1, sc in same st as last sl st.  sk end of this hdc row and place 5 dc (shell)  in end of next row.  *sc in end of ridge, 5 dc in end of next row* around.   Join in first sc.  (12 sc, 12 5-dc shells)  Fasten off and weave in ends.
PHOTO
For Boys:  You can either leave it plain and start working on the body of the hat from this very same position OR you can do a Crab Stitch (Backward Single Crochet) around the edges.  If you do the Crab Stitch, join at end of row, fasten off, weave in ends.

Body of Hat--
Attach yarn at opposite end of seam, ch 1, sc in same st as joining.

Row 1: ch 3, place 2 dc in the sc you just made, sk 1 st.  *sc in next st, ch 3, place 2 dc in the side of the sc you just made* (lazy shell made).  Work in this way around the side rows of the ribbing opposite the girl/boy edging of course.  Join in 1st sc.  (20 lazy shells)

Row 2: TURN WORK, ch 1, sc in base of joining, ch 3, 2 dc in side of sc just made.
Sc into ch 3 of previous row/next lazy shell.  ch 3, 2 dc under same ch 3 space.  (finished lazy shell).  *sc under ch 3 of next lazy shell on last row, ch 3, 2 dc under same ch 3 space* around.  Join with sl st in first sc.  (21 lazy shells)

Row 3: ch 1, TURN, sl st in 1st 2 dc and into ch 3 of previous lazy shell.  Ch 1, in ch 3 place a Lazy Shell (ch 1, sc, ch3, 2 dc all in next ch 3).  Repeat around.  (Piece will start looking incredibly large.  Not to worry)  Join with sl st in 1st sc.  (21 lazy shells)

Row 4: TURN, sl st in 1st 2 dc and into ch3 of previous lazy shell.  Ch 1, sc in same space, ONE (1) dc in ch 3.  *sc in next ch 3, ch 3, 1 dc in same ch 3 (Modified Lazy Shell).  Proceed to put a Modified Lazy Shell in each Lazy Shell around.  Join to beginning sc.
(21 Modified Lazy Shells).

Row 5: Ch 2, Place 2 hdc in each ch 3 around.  (42 hdc)  (Note:  I worked this row quite tight.)

INNER RIBBING:

Row 1: `ch 7, turn, working back on ch you just made,  sk first loop, sl st in next 2 ch, sc in next 2 ch, hdc in last ch.  Now comes the "interesting part--)  sk joining, sl st in next 2 hdc on last row worked.

Row 2: turn work so little "tail thingy" is on your left.  IN BACK LOOP ONLY, make a hdc in 1st hdc on tail,  sc in each of next 2 sc (again back loops only...you will be making a shrinking rib), sl st in next 2 sl sts.  (hard work but u can do it--I just pick up whatever I can get in the back loop and go on.   doesn't show)

Row 3: ch 1, sl st in bk lp only of 1st 2 sl sts, sc in bk lp of next 2 sc, hdc in hdc.
sl st in next 3 sts on body of hat....
Continue in this manner until you are at the beginning.  If you have a problem, consult the directions above for Shrinking Rib.  You can always email me for clarity.  Emmalemmon47@yahoo.com

View of top of hat w/shrink rib.

Grow-able Hat Crochet Pattern

BOYS (& Girls) Reversible and Grow-able Hat

           

This is a Very Easy Pattern.
Worsted Wt Yarn.  I used Impeccable and then RedHeart and both worked.
Size J crochet Hook

I would say that this pattern fits a 4 or 5 year old and can grow into a 7 or 8 year old.  I have it on my little mannequin head and it fits well.  You could do the same pattern with a larger hook for a teen or adult and a smaller hook for a younger one.   My friend Pat tested this for me and made the girl's version.

The Right Side of the work is for the smaller size.


NOTE#1:  Adjust pattern in any way you wish.  I made one that had alternating rows of hdc/sc for the first 8 rows and it made the hat smaller and warmer on the top.  Feel free to post or use this pattern anywhere, even to selling the finished product.... except to claim it as your own.

Thanks.

INSTRUCTIONS:

Row 1:  (RIGHT SIDE OF WORK) ch 3, 6 sc in 2nd ch.  Join.  Pull yarn tight.

Row 2:  ch 2, 2 hdc in each sc around (14 hdc)

Row 3:  ch 2, *2 hdc in first hdc, 1 hdc in next hdc* around.  (21 hdc)

Row 4:  ch 2,  *2 hdc in first hdc, 1 hdc in each of next 2 hdc* around.
(28 hdc)

Row 5: ch 2,  *2 hdc in first hdc, 1 hdc in each of next 3 hdc* around.  (35 hdc)

Continue increasing each row, using hdc, until you have 49 sts.
(should be 2 more rows)

Row 8: ch 2, hdc around, increasing 3 sts evenly space so that you end up with 52 sts.

Row 9-19:  ch 2, hdc in each st around (52 sts)

Row 20:  TURN WORK:  ch 3, dc in back loop of each stitch around.
Join.

Row 21:  ch 2, dc in each st around (NOT back loop).  Join.
Fasten off.

NOTE#2:  You could also make this into a girls' hat by using "girly" colors and even adding a row after the two brim rows----:  ch 1, sc in first st,  skip 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, *skip 2 sts, sc in next st, skip 2 sts, 5 dc in next st*.  Repeat ** around.



This is now a reversible, growable hat...as soon as you tuck or weave in the ends.  Smile.    When you turn the hat inside out it "grows".