Designed BY Linda Graimm, email@example.com
**If you make the sock, please let me know if there were any errors. Thank you.
Knit OR Crochet!! (Knitting directions with crocheted heel and toe are at the end of the pattern.)
This soft sock pattern is very adaptable. I made an adult pair and felted them, a change of hook size and/or yarn size could make a pair for a toddler. They work up SO quickly. I am the only one who has tested this pattern so, if you make them, please let me know if there are any problems or you have any questions.
Size ‘I’ Hook = Women’s Size up to 8
Sized ‘G’ hook for toddler’s socks
GAUGE: Size ‘I’ hook = 14 hdc and 4 rows is 4”; ‘G’ Hook = 15 hdc/8 rows is 4”
1. The felted socks pictured were made with Patons Classic Wool and a Size ‘K’ hook (orange and gray).
2. The smaller knitted socks were made with doubled sock yarn.
3. Be sure to do original chain LOOSELY.
4. There is NO SEAM on bottom of foot so no discomfort from that.
5. Chain 2 does NOT count as stitch.
6. ALL BODY STITCHES ARE DONE IN BACK LOOP ONLY.
7. I wrote the pattern in Sections, as opposed to rows. It is easier to read (according to me tic).
Section 1: Chain 40 (loosely!), work hdc in 3rd chain from hook, and hdc across chain. Turn, chain 2 each row. (38 hdc)
Row 2-5: Working in back loops only, hdc across, chain 2, turn. (38 stitches)
Section 2: Row 6: Work first 23 hdc, turn, chain 2. Leave remaining 15 stitches for now. Chain 2, turn. (23 hdc)
Row 7-11: Working in back loops only, hdc across, chain 2, turn. (23 hdc) Mark last stitch with scrap yarn or stitch marker. Fasten off.
Section 4: Turn Work. (See Photo B.) Attach yarn in marked stitch on 23-sts section, chain 2. Hdc (in back loop only) in this stitch and each stitch across 23 sts and 15 sts. (38 sts)
Note: I am calling the stitch that is between the 15-st section and the 23-st section a “Hinge” to make explanations easier.
Work four more rows in pattern (Ch 2, turn, hdc in back loops only across row). (you will have 8 “ridges” on the Right Side and 8 indentations on Wrong Side.) (38 sts)
Section 6: TOE Attach choice of yarn color for the Toe anywhere on short end of sock nearest heel ‘slash’ (the 15-hdc side), I attached yarn lined up with the middle of what will be the heel.
Row 2: Chain 1, sc in each st around, join. (26 sc)
Row 3-8: Flatten work with heel ‘slashes’ on side, Chain 1, decrease one stitch each side, join. (24, 22, 20, 18, 16, 14 sc)
Fasten off, leave long end for sewing. ON WRONG SIDE OF WORK, Flatten toe section so that heel slash is centered, sew seam. Check out Photo C.
Part 7: HEEL From Right Side, attach your choice of yarn color in end of first row just after “hinge” of heel slash. Work 26 sc evenly spaced around, join. (26sc)
Row 2: Chain 1, work 1 row of sc even, join. (26 sc)
Row 3: Slip stitch in first st, ch 1, sc around, placing a 3-sc decrease on each side (to 3-sc dec: pick up a loop in each of next 3 sts, pull through 4 loops) and join. (22 sc)
Row 4: Slip stitch in first st, ch 1, *sc in each of 4 sc, dec over net 2 sc* around to last 4 sc, sc in last 4, join. (19 sts)
Row 5: Ch 1, repeat Row 4 with only one last sc, crochet in last sc, join. (16 sts)
Row 6: Ch 1, *sc in 3 sts, decrease over next 2 sts* around, join (12 sts)
Row 7: Ch 1, *sc 2 sts together, sc in 1 st* around, sc in last st, join. (9 sts)
Row 8: Repeat Row 7. (5 sts)
Fasten off, leave a long end of yarn for sewing heel closed.
Flatten stitches and sew heel closed from Wrong Side. Weave in ends.
--Follow directions above, substitute K2,P2 rib for Parts 1-5.
Ex: Cast on 40 sts, work in K2/P2 ribbing for needed amount of rows. Slip stitches not being worked to a stitch holder. Follow directions for crocheted heel and toe.